How to Crochet a Chain Stitch
The chain stitch is the most foundational skill in crochet. Before you can work a single crochet, double crochet, or any other stitch, you first need a foundation chain — the starting row of loops that almost every project is built on. The chain stitch is also where you first feel the true rhythm of crochet: yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, again and again until you have the number of stitches you need. Unlike more complex stitches, the chain requires only one motion and produces a consistent, predictable result that you can examine and learn from. Mastering it means you understand tension, hook angle, and the basic mechanic of loop construction — all of which transfer directly to every other stitch you will ever learn. This guide covers everything from how to hold your hook and yarn for the first time, to exactly how to make each chain, to counting them, fixing common problems, and knowing when your chain is good enough to build on.
What Is a Chain Stitch?
A chain stitch is a single loop of yarn pulled through the loop already on your hook. The result looks like a small V when viewed from the front, and a series of bumps when viewed from the back. A row of these Vs linked together is called the foundation chain, and it serves as the cast-on edge for almost every flat crochet project. In patterns, chain stitches appear constantly — not just as the starting row, but also as the turning chain that lifts your work to the correct height at the start of each new row, as decorative chains in lace patterns, and as the spaces between stitches in open-work designs. Understanding what a chain is and what it looks like is essential because you will need to work stitches into it on the very next row, which requires identifying each individual chain space. A well-made foundation chain is firm but flexible, with each V sitting neatly next to the others in a row that you can easily spread apart to see the individual loops.
How to Hold the Hook and Yarn
Before making your first chain, get comfortable holding the hook and yarn. There are two main hook grips: the pencil grip, where you hold the hook the same way you hold a pencil, with the handle resting between thumb and index finger and the shaft extending out from the end; and the knife grip, where the hook lies across your palm with your fingers curled around it from above, similar to holding a dinner knife. Both grips produce excellent results — try both and use whichever feels natural. For the non-dominant hand, the goal is to control the yarn tension by passing the working yarn over one or two fingers so that it flows steadily onto the hook without jerking or going slack. Many beginners drape the yarn over the index finger and hold the tail between thumb and middle finger. Your non-dominant hand also holds the work close to the hook, typically pinching just below the current stitch with thumb and middle finger and re-gripping every few stitches as the chain grows.
The Yarn Over: The Core Motion of Crochet
The chain stitch, like almost every crochet stitch, begins with a yarn over. A yarn over — abbreviated YO in patterns — is the simple act of bringing the working yarn over the hook from back to front. Starting with the hook facing down and slightly toward you, swing the yarn from behind the hook, over the top, and toward you in a smooth, downward arc. The yarn should now be sitting across the hook shaft, held in place by the angle of the hook head. This is your yarn over. The yarn over is so fundamental to crochet that many experienced crocheters do it without thinking about it at all — it becomes as automatic as breathing. But as a beginner, practice the motion deliberately: bring the yarn from back to front, feel it catch on the hook, then use the hook head to guide that yarn through the loop already on the hook. Everything else in crochet is built on this one motion repeated in different combinations.
Step-by-Step: Making a Chain Stitch
Start with your slip knot on the hook, held comfortably in your dominant hand. The working yarn should be under tension over the index finger of your non-dominant hand. Step one: rotate the hook slightly so the open throat faces the yarn — this helps catch it cleanly. Step two: bring the working yarn over the hook from back to front, creating a yarn over. You now have two loops on the hook: the original slip knot loop and the new yarn-over loop. Step three: use the hook to pull the yarn-over loop through the slip knot loop. As you pull through, the slip knot loop is consumed and a new, single loop remains on the hook. That new loop is your first chain stitch. The slip knot is now below the hook, forming the anchor of your chain. Repeat steps two and three: yarn over, pull through. Each repetition adds one chain stitch. Maintain gentle, even pulling force on both the working yarn through your finger and the forming chain below the hook.
How to Count Your Chains
When your pattern says chain 20, you need to be certain you have exactly 20 chains before moving on. Counting is simple once you know what to look for. Turn the chain so the V side faces you — this is the front of the chain. Each V represents one chain stitch. Count the Vs from the hook end toward the tail end, moving along the top of the chain. Do not count the loop currently on your hook — that is the working loop, not a completed chain. Do not count the slip knot at the bottom of the chain — that is your anchor, not a chain stitch. Every V between those two is one chain. If counting while making the chain is confusing, make a few extra chains, then count the finished chain after completing it. Many experienced crocheters prefer to make extra chains and count from the finished chain rather than count on the fly. Mark every tenth stitch with a stitch marker to make large chain counts easier.
Keeping Even Tension: The Key Skill
Tension refers to how tightly or loosely you hold and pull the yarn as you stitch. Even tension means every chain stitch comes out the same size — all the Vs are the same height and width, and the chain lies flat and uniform. Uneven tension creates a chain that alternates between tight, cramped stitches and loose, floppy ones, which makes the following row much harder to work into. Good tension comes from two places: the yarn hand and the hook motion. Your yarn hand should provide steady, moderate resistance — enough to keep the yarn taut but not so much that the yarn fights the hook. Your hook motion should be consistent: the same angle, the same depth of pull for each stitch. Work slowly at first. Speed will develop on its own once the motion feels natural. The most common tension error for beginners is gradually tightening up as concentration increases. Every few chains, take a breath, relax your hands, and consciously loosen your grip.
Common Chaining Mistakes and How to Fix Them
The most prevalent mistake is chaining too tightly. A tight foundation chain is stiff, hard to count, and nearly impossible to work the first row into because the spaces between chains are too small to insert the hook. If your chain curls into a stiff rope instead of lying flat and flexible, try one or both of these fixes: consciously relax your yarn hand between each stitch, or switch to a hook one size larger for the foundation chain only, then switch back to your regular hook for the first row. Another common mistake is twisting the chain as you go — this happens when you rotate the hook or let the chain hang and spiral. Check occasionally that the V side of all the chains faces the same direction. A third issue is miscounting: working the first stitch of the next row into the wrong chain. This is covered in detail in the counting stitches guide, but for now, simply count your finished chain before moving on.
What to Do With Your Foundation Chain
Once you have the correct number of chains, your foundation chain is ready to become the base of your first project. The next step is to work stitches back into the chain — a process called working into the foundation chain. Your hook goes into the chain stitches themselves, picks up the working yarn, and pulls it through to form the first row of actual crochet stitches. Many beginners find the foundation chain the most frustrating part of crochet, because the spaces are small and the chain can twist and turn. If you are struggling, consider a starting method called a foundation single crochet, which creates the base row and first row of stitches simultaneously. But for now, practice chaining until you can make 20 chains with consistent sizing, flat orientation, and smooth tension. That ability alone will take you a very long way.